Forum HotHatches Information

[SpdR]

1. Diverter valve failure

Background:
The stock diverter valve (dv) is prone to failure, whether chipped or stock. The diaphragm is prone to tearing (the orange shown in the pic of the stock dv (in the middle) below-may be a different color depending on the version of dv you have.)
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/forgedvinstall1.jpg)
Symptoms:
-A failing diverter valve will generally lose boost.
-The boost can be checked either via a boost gauge, or the vag-com (mb 115). You will see a huge drop in boost when the dv goes bad.
-Pin-hole DV failures usually allow boost to spike, but will then suddenly vent boost.
Tearing in the DV usually only allows 6-7 PSI. Boost will not spike.
-You may see 000665 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Control Range Not Reached
p0299 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-Alternatively, you can remove the dv, and inspect the diaphragm for tears. It is held onto the compressor housing by three bolts:

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/turbo.jpg)

Solution:
-You can replace it with the stock dv, vw #06F 145 710 C. This is the latest dv as of this post, however, many people have also seen failures with the “C” dv. VW is also supposedly coming out with a “G” dv, part # 06F-145-710-G, though it is not officially released as of this post.
-You can upgrade to the Forge DV #fmfsitv. Pics of the Forge DV are shown above.

2. Positive Crankcase Ventilation failure

Background:
The positive crankcase ventilation is supposed to let gases get sucked from the crankcase to the intake manifold when under vacuum. The problem is, when the pcv system fails, and allows positive pressure (boost) to go from the intake manifold back into the crankcase.
(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/pcv.jpg)

The latest PCV is the “G” version. To see which version you have, take a small mirror, and stick it under the pcv valve. The last letter identifies the revision (“E” is shown below). The part # is under the round section:

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/pcv1.jpg)

Symptoms:
-Typically you will see a slight drop in boost pressure. When my pcv failed, I saw a 2 psi drop across the board.
-Some oil will be pushed out through the oil filler cap, and onto the valve cover, and may possibly go towards the coil packs. There may also be some oil on the bottom side of the engine cover, where the oil filler cap is.
-There might be a slight decrease in MPG.
-Rear PCV failure usually results in oil accumulation around the DV, and will produce a little blue oil smoke at WOT applications.

Solution:
-There is the Digitalhippie fix which puts a check valve into the line from the crankcase to the intake manifold. For those who want a spare of the hose where the check valve is installed, the part number is 06F 103 221 F. You can read more about it here: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/...=8952
-You can also upgrade to the latest PCV “G” valve. There have been very few failures reported with this PCV. Please verify the PCV you have before upgrading.
Part numbers for this upgrade:
PCV valve cover assembly: 06F 129 101 G
PCV valve cover gasket: 06F 103 483 E
PCV valve cover to turbo hose: 06F 103 215 A
PCV tube to turbo metal gasket: 06F 145 757 F

-If you did the DH pcv fix, and you have a rear pcv failure, then you will need to change the tube labeled as "Exhaust turbocharged gas outlet" showin in the pic above. the Part #'s are the last two shown above (06F 103 215 A & 06F 145 757 F)

3. Broken intake ducting

Background:
Some people have reported that part of the intake ducting that connects to the stock engine (the part in front of the accordion section) breaks off and gets lost, or worst, gets stuck and/or shredded by the fan. Due to its location, the loss in power should be minimal.

(IMG:http://www.swankmonkey.com/vw/jetta/2006/images/engine_cover/intake_cover_damage.jpg)

Symptom:
-You may notice that part of the ducting is missing.
-You may see shreds of the ducting in and around the fan.
-You may see the coolant temps rising possibly due to a part of the intake ducting getting stuck and not allowing the fan to turn. If the coolant gauge goes into the red, then immediately shut the engine off, and check to see if the fan is operating.

Solution:
-If the fan is damaged, then you may need a new fan.
-An aftermarket intake will replace the ducting section, and is a possibly solution.
-You might be able to tape or epoxy the sections together, so that it will make them harder to come apart. You may also remove the top piece alltogether.


4. Cam lobe wear
Background:
Excessive wear of intake camshaft lobe that drives the high pressure fuel pump. The wear limits maximum pump piston lift, causing fuel rail pressure fluctuations. The intake cam drives the fuel pump:

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/fuel20pump20-20cam20lobe.jpg)

Please see also #5 below.

Symptom:
-Fuel cut-out when driving, esp. under WOT.
-Fuel cut-out symptoms range from soft pulsations of power to long-pulse bucking while in high-gear high-load situations (high gear at WOT, or up a grade). MIL may flash if cut-out is severe. Car will also go into hard-limp (no boost, 4500RPM limit) if severe enough.
-MIL ON
-P0087 Fuel Rail / System Pressure - Too Low
-P1093 Fuel Trim 2, Bank 1 Malfunction
-P2293 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Performance

Solution:
Increase surface hardening of camshaft lobe for the high pressure fuel pump. Improved intake camshafts have Part No. 06F109101B. Refer to TSB# 15 07 04

5. High pressure fuel pump failure

Background:
The high pressure fuel pump sometimes is not able to supply enough fuel, especially at low to mid range RPMs because it is cam driven. Please note that the high pressure fuel pump is different than the in-tank fuel pump. Please see also #4 above.

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/fuelpump.jpg)

Symptom:
-Fuel cut-out when driving, esp. under WOT.
-You may see the following DTC
004767 - Low-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulation: Pressure too High
P129F - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON

Solution:
-If you are chipped, then try to put the car in stock mode to see if the fuel cuts will stop. If it does, then you might want to wait until a fuel pump solution comes out. APR and Autotech are currently working on solutions.
-If you are stock, then it is possible that you have a bad fuel pump. The dealer should replace this under warranty.

[SpdR]

6. Air conditioning does not work

Background:
The air conditioners manuf. By Zelex and Valeo tend to fail. They can be identified by the pulley:

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/ac20pulley.jpg)

Symptom:
- Air conditioning does not cool, air conditioning compressor may seize.

Solution:
- On the 2.0T engine a new Sanden compressor Part No: 1K0820803 index S must be installed. Refer to ETKA for the latest part # for the other engines. This should be covered under warranty.

7. Tumble flap failure
Background:
The tumble flap motor is prone to failure. This is probably the most common problem I’ve seen when scanning cars with the vag-com. A little background on how the tumble flap works:

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/tumble20flap.jpg)

Symptoms:

You may see the following DTC’s
-012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded – Intermittent
-012691 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Open Stop outside of Valid Range
P3193 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-008196 - Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1: Stuck Open
P2004 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
- 012600 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Regulation Deviation
P3138 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON

Solution: The intake manifold flap motor needs to be replaced.

8. Cold Start Problems

Background/Symptom: Troubles starting car when cold

Solution:
-Some people have reported that it was related to a certain gas, so maybe try a different gas station/company.
-Get the latest software reflash.
-Could also be a bad coil pack.

9. Misfires

Background/Symptom:
-Misfiring either under idle or under boost.
-Scan for DTC’s. See which cylinder is misfiring, and swap coils and or plugs to see if the misfire follows.
-Coil pack misfire (non-fire, lol) symptoms are shorter duration, rather violent, and also result in backfires from unburnt fuel entering the exhaust system. The MIL usually starts flashing. Car may or may not go into limp.

Solution:
-Replace coils and/or plugs
-Could be a bad fuel injector


A special thanks to DirtyDisco. and syntrix for providing some of the info used in this post.

10. Low Fuel Pressure Sensor Failure


Background/Symptom:
You may get the following DTC’s:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation: Fuel Pressure Outside Specification
P310B - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent - MIL ON

004767 - Low-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulation: Pressure too High
P129F - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded – Intermittent

-The first symptom is typically stalling when first starting the car cold.
-Typically, the problem gets worse, and can lead to fuel cutouts at almost any rpm and/or car stalling/running lean/rich

Solution: Replace low fuel pressure sensor (thurst sensor), vw part #06E906051J
Sometimes, the high pressure fuel pump will be replaced at the same time (#1 in pic below)

(IMG:http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/dpham00/fuelpressuresensor.jpg)

[Dr.Silviu]

Excelent post!
Am avut si eu odata o eroare de la punctul 7
-012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded – Intermittent

Am tot citit pe net si am vazut este un TSB pe tipul asta de problema! Am fost la reprezentante si nu le-a aparut pe VAS nimic...
Incercat de 2 ori si tot nimic (mie pe VAG-com original imi aparea, iar lor pe VAS nu)
Cand ma duceam la ei ma asiguram ca mai este eroarea acolo si dupa ce o luam disparea misterios...

[SpdR]

Presupun ca era acoperita de garantie nu?(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) )

Inca un TSB descoperit pe propria mea piele..numai ca a mea nu mai era in garantie, desi trebuia schimbata pentru ca era defect de fabricatie din partea lor.

Este vorba despre clapeta de acceleratie de la toate motoarele TFSI fabricate pana in 03.07. Au TSB pentru schimbarea ei cu una mai buna, mai rezistenta.

[Dr.Silviu]

Da.. era pe garantie...
Sunt curios ce o sa zica la urmatoarea revizie (de cateva zile a reaparut eroarea). Garantie expirata de 6 luni

[Dr.Silviu]

Am fost pe Transfagarasan si se pare ca am problema de la punctul 4! In depasiri imi ramanea acul la 3200rpm dar isi revenea in cateva secunde... Treaba asta s-a mai repetat de cateva ori dar dup-aia a mers cum trebuie...
Am fost la revizie (trebuia facuta) si surpriza! (nu chiar) NU am nici o problema la masina! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Mie pe vcds original imi apare eroarea 000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low
P0087 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Dar lor NIMIC! Dupa ei, masina este in parametrii normali!
Nu stiu ce e cu ei.. le place sa se joace cu viata mea (nici nu vreau sa ma gandesc ce fac daca ma lasa masina in plina depasire)
Stie cineva pe cineva la Porsche care sa ma ajute?? Dar cineva care sa nu stearga eroarea si dup-aia sa astepte sa reapara (ca asta pot sa fac si eu)

[Alex]

eu lucrez la porsche, pot vorbi cu cineva sa se uite la ea ... dar nu stiu daca ii dau de cap repede

[Dr.Silviu]

Pai daca apare eroarea (sunt sigur ca este), si cum sigur se stie de problema comuna (vezi punctul 4 si TSB# 15 07 04) atunci nu stiu de ce sa se chinuie.
Dar sunt dispus sa incerc. Lasa un nr de tel pe PM si vedem ce are..

[Shy]

am avut ambele probleme pe care le aminteste Dr Silviu si in aceleasi imprejurari . Eu le sterg din VAG COM si apar ceva mai tarziu ... le sterg iar... etc (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Apropos ... are cineva ETKA ?

Ups ... am facut dublu post . scuze (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) nu stiu cum sa sterg )

Nu am niciun delete ! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Acest mesaj a fost editat de ronnie: Jul 22 2009, 10:49 PM

Motivul editarii: am unit eu posturile :)

[Dr.Silviu]

Dai edit si dup-aia delete. Da, am eu ETKA (cel cu recunoastere VIN (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) )

[robi_zet]

@ alex ma pot baza pe tine pt o revizie cand o fi cazu? adica sa fiu sigur ca imi skimba toate filtrele si pun ulei bun?

[adyp2003]

1. Am si eu un ETKA ver.731, dar imi merge doar pentru VW si Skoda...
Silviu, cand ne vom vedea, poate ne aducem cate un DVD unul altuia ca sa facem schimb de "experienta". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

2. Problema numarul 10 am avut-o si eu din fabrica si am rezolvat-o pe garantie dupa un an. Am fost fraier ca n-am tipat la ei, ma tot asigurau ca totul e ok, pana am dat de un om cumsecade de pe acolo...
Ca sa va descriu, in realitate, problema e mult mai grava: ai senzatia ca se inneaca atunci cand dai la cheie, iar motorul e nepornit de cel putin 12 ore. Scoate niste zgomote ca niste rateuri, e oribil... Cand a incercat cineva sa mi-o porneasca si nu stia cum sta treaba, a renuntat sa mai dea la demaror, in asa fel s-a speriat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Rezolvarea data mai sus este intr-adevar cea corecta, i-am pus sa imi mazgaleasca in cartea de service desi se codeau, si au pomenit generic de o "inlocuire senzor de presiune".

[Alex]

robi sigur imi spui cand si te ajut

p.s. cineva cu vag com prin buc ... sa vad si eu daca am vreo eroare ?(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Dr.Silviu]

Da, Alex, am eu (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Shy]

Ne vedem deseara sa facem niste loguri ?

PS poate ne dai si dvd-ul cu ETKA (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Dr.Silviu]

Facem prima spontana de HH? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif) Va dau dvd-uri, dar loguri nu stiu sa fac (inca). Si laptopul cu vag e deocamdata in service...

P.S unde vreti?

[adyp2003]

Daca vreti sa ne vedem in seara asta foarte tarziu, dupa ora 22:00-22:30, vin si eu.
Va trebui sa trec pe acasa, sa scriu discul cu ETKA si apoi ne intalnim la Casa Poporului.

Ce ziceti? Spontanele sunt fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Alex]

dupa 22 poate apar si eu

[Dr.Silviu]

Atunci ramane la Casa Poporului dupa 22:00?

[adyp2003]

Eu ajung pe la 22:15.

[Dr.Silviu]

Da.. se pare ca nu a fost una din problemele "comune". Se defectase senzorul din filtru de benzina... Cei de la PBV2 mi l-au schimbat (revizia), dar mi-au pus unul gresit (4.0bar in loc de 6.4bar).
Am fost la PBN si mi-au gasit problema si mi-au inlocuit filtru de benzina pentru masina mea (6.4bar). Erorile nu au mai aparut si merge perfect (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
Tin sa-i multumesc lui Alex pentru ajutorul acordat in rezolvarea problemei!

P.S: Factura de la PBN este suportata de PBV2 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[fuscobal]

Excelent post!
Am avut si eu odata o eroare de la punctul 7
-012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded – Intermittent

Eroarea asta este de la Intake flap motor V157, o unitate aflata sub clapeta de acceleratie.Desi eroarea e inregistrata in ECU, performantele masinii nu sunt afectate in nici un fel. Sunt 2 posibilitati :
1) motorasul a cedat > s-a intamplat in destule cazuri
2) exista update de soft care rezolva problema > in state a fost actiune de rechemare pe garantie pentru asa ceva

[Dr.Silviu]

Da... era bine daca traiam in state... La noi nu se stie de nici un TSB si masinile merg perfect mereu....
Din fericire nu mi-a mai aparut eroarea... Nu stiu unde e clapeta de acceleratie, si nu cred ca este in pedala (aia am inlocuit-o cu cea de S3)

[fuscobal]

Ti-am incercuit cu rosu clapeta de acceleratie !

Fisiere Atasate

 Clapeta_acceleratie.JPG ( 156.02k ) Numarul de Transferari: 77

 

[alaraw]

Am fost pe Transfagarasan si se pare ca am problema de la punctul 4! In depasiri imi ramanea acul la 3200rpm dar isi revenea in cateva secunde... Treaba asta s-a mai repetat de cateva ori dar dup-aia a mers cum trebuie...
Am fost la revizie (trebuia facuta) si surpriza! (nu chiar) NU am nici o problema la masina! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Mie pe vcds original imi apare eroarea 000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too Low
P0087 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Dar lor NIMIC! Dupa ei, masina este in parametrii normali!
Nu stiu ce e cu ei.. le place sa se joace cu viata mea (nici nu vreau sa ma gandesc ce fac daca ma lasa masina in plina depasire)
Stie cineva pe cineva la Porsche care sa ma ajute?? Dar cineva care sa nu stearga eroarea si dup-aia sa astepte sa reapara (ca asta pot sa fac si eu)

Sa nu iti faca figuri HPFP.. Eu am trecut prin asta de multe ori si sunt deja la a 2 a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Exact la fel mi se intampla, nu dadea mereu erori dar cand se incalzea mai rau nu mai face fata, plus ca alimentarea ei este deosebit de sensibila. Poata sa fie si o problema de la ea, sau mufa putin oxidata.. Acum am vazut ca ai rezolvat problema. La mine se pare ca a fost alta situatia...

[Dr.Silviu]

Da.. am rezolvat-o... De 2000km nu mi-a mai facut deloc.

[Dr.Silviu]

Ce parere aveti despre aceasta problema comuna la 2.0Tfsi?
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=7040.0

[Dr.Silviu]

Se pare ca se va rezolva si problema de la punctul 7! Cu ajutorul lui Alex (IMG:style_emoticons/default/Haling.gif)
Este motorasul de la galeria de admise care necesita schimbat. E pe comanda, Luni se pune pe masina (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Alex]

sa speram ca se va rezolva de data asta ... nu ca la Vest (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Alex]

am auzit o chestie noua ...
cica la motoarele de prin 2006, ar fi indicata montarea unui catch can ... ca apar din ce in ce mai multe probleme ...

[Dr.Silviu]

Cu siguranta asta va fi unul dintre "upgrade-uri"... Se foloseste mai ales la masinile tunate... Dar si la stock sunt foarte utile.
Dupa ce imi pun bara stabilizatoare, va urma si catch-can-ul.


P.S. S-a rezolvat cu problema 7 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Multumiri lui Alex (IMG:style_emoticons/default/Haling.gif) Am mers cateva zile si am scanat-o si nu mi-a mai aparut nimic!
Sa vedem ce urmeaza (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Alex]

imi zici dupa ce faci un drum mai lung. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

am vazut pe vortex parca .. un tip care avea motorul plin de ulei si pistoanele topite ... etc
si zice el ca daca ar fi avut catch can ar fi evitat toate astea ... o sa postez linkul diseara, ca il am pe acasa

[Dr.Silviu]

pe cam toate forumurile e o frenezie cu aceste catch-cans.... Clar e un lucru util. Pana acuma nu am vazut motoare desfacute care sa fi avut acest catch-can, dar am vazut cum aratau cand nu aveau asa ceva... (il stii pe johnnyC cand si-a desfacut motorul la S3...)

[Mituc]

Aceste "oil catch tank" sau "oil catch can" (le gasiti pe site-uri sub ambele denumiri) par sa fie recomandate la mai toate masinile turbo benzina, mai ales daca se fac modificari de putere la motor (de obicei doar chip tuning fara sa umbli la turbina, intercooler, etc, ca astea ar mai ajuta putin).
Problema e ca din cauza cresterii de presiune din admisie si fara o racire buna a motorului si a aerului de dupa turbina (si inainte, evident) gazele, vaporii de ulei si benzina, etc, care ajung inapoi se depun pe diverse (valve, axe, etc). Se intimpla sa se mai depuna si pe pistoane impiedicind racirea corecta a acestora, de unde si petele albastre sau ciupiturile de pe pistoane.

Deci daca aveti chip tuning si nu ati pus o turbina sanatoasa si un intercooler mai eficient... macar 100EUR intr-un catch can trebuie sa investiti pentru siguranta. Indiferent de masina, nu neaparat VAG 2.0TFSI.

[Darian]

Merci de sfat am si inceput cautarile pentru catch can de ST.

[bogdan_wrc]

adica aici era discutia
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?p=845439
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302966

dar astea universale ar merge?
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp...roduct=FMUNCTCF
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp...;product=FMUNCT

[Mituc]

Merg si alea universale, forge, greddy, etc. La urma urmei nu-ti trebuie decit niste furtune sa le potrivesti, nu este, sa zicem, precum la BOV-uri unde-ti trebuie anumite reglaje (presiune de deschidere reglata prin taria unui arc), prinderi si dimensiuni anume ale furtunelor (mai rar), samd. Eu universal o sa-mi pun, cel mai probabil greddy superlight de un litru.

[Nicky]

Pentru cei interesati, am tradus un document de la Ross-Tech pentru erori aparute pe Vag-Com.

Ajustari in alimentarea cu benzina - FUEL TRIMS (VAG-COM)

Unele dintre cele mai des intalnite coduri de eroare (DTC – Diagnostic Trouble Codes) sunt legate de ajustarile in alimentarea cu benzina (amestec bogat, amestec sarac) In cele ce urmeaza, vor fi prezentate ajustarile in alimentarea cu benzina, cat si repercusiunile acestora asupra functionarii motorului.

Unitatea ECU (Engine Control Unit – Unitatea de Control a Motorului) regleaza amestecul Aer/Combustibil (A/F – Air / Fuel mixture) in scopul mentinerii nivelulurilor optime de putere, randament si emisii poluante. Raportul A/F se exprima fie ca un raport (14.7:1, spre exemplu) sau drept o valoare Lambda. Cu o benzina buna (isooctane – cifra octanica ridicata), valoarea Lambda 1.0 este egala cu 14.7:1 A/F. Aceasta valoare este cunoscuta sub numele de "Stoichiometrica", si presupune o conditie in care exista un echilibru perfect intre moleculele de oxigen si diversele molecule de hidrogen si carbon prezente in carburant. Cu benzina aditivata pe care majoritatea o folosim, raportul A/F real de 15:1 este apropiat celui stoichiometric.

Daca valoarea Lambda este mai mare decat 1.0, atunci se poate spune ca exista un surplus de aer si ca motorul functioneaza cu amestec sarac (running lean).

Daca valoarea Lambda este mai mica decat 1.0, atunci se poate afirma ca exista un surplus de combustibil si ca motorul functioneaza cu amestec bogat (running rich). De notat este faptul ca raporturi sunt determinate pe unitati de masa (grame) si nu de volum (cm3).

Cineva ar putea intreba de ce nu ruleaza motoarele in permanenta la valoarea Lambda = 1.0? Ei bine, ele ruleaza asa IN MAREA PARTE a timpului. La un regim de deplasare economic (cruise) sau la ralanti (idle), amestecul este mentinut la valoarea Lambda=1.0 pentru a mentine convertorul catalitic la o eficienta optima, in acest fel diminuand emisiile poluante. Cu toate acestea, atunci cand este nevoie de acceleratie, amestecul devine mai bogat. De ce? Puterea maxima se realizeaza intre valori Lambda de 0.85 si 0.95 (intre 12.5 si 14.0 raport A/F cu iso-octan). Asadar, in timpul accelerarii, amestecul devine mai bogat. Cateodata se doreste ca amestecul sa fie si mai bogat in timpul accelerarii pentru a evita detonatiile (pre-aprinderea amestecului generata de temperaturile excesive de la nivelul cilindrilor. Motoarele VAG 1.8T au un raport de compresie relativ ridicat pentru gama de motoare turbo, ceea ce le face foarte susceptibile la detonatii sub valori de Boost ridicate.

Asadar, acum stim ca ECU intentioneaza sa fie in masura sa controleze raportul A/F. ECU are un set prescris de valori (maps - harti) pentru o anumita turatie, sarcina etc. Prin urmare, ECU dicteaza injectoarelor timpul in care ele pulverizeaza combustibil (**.* millisecunde) si acest lucru AR TREBUI sa conduca obtinerea raportului A/F dorit. Ei bine, daca ii spui unui angajat sa mearga sa faca ceva, trebuie sa te si asiguri ca acel angajat duce la indeplinire sarcina, nu e asa? ECU se bazeaza pe niste martori (senzorul de oxigen O2 din fata si MAF-ul (Mass Air Flow – senzor de curgere aer in admisie), in principal) care vor transmite inapoi la ECU daca amestecul dorit a fost atins sau nu. Senzorul de oxigen din spate este folosit, in principal, pentru a monitoriza starea convertorului catalitic (catalizatorului), desi, in unele aplicatii, acesta contribuie la atingerea unui nivel mai exact de informare.

Pe baza raspunsului de la martori, ECU invata sa aplice un factor de corectie asupra comenzilor lui catre injectoare. Daca stii ca angajatilor le va lua mai mult timp sa realizeze o sarcina, acest lucru trebuie avut in vedere in faza de planificare a lucrarilor (injectoarele sunt intr-o uniune, deci este greu sa le demitem). Aceste valori invatate sunt introduse in circuitul dintre hartile din memoria Flash ROM a ECU ("chipul") si semnalul catre injectoare. Aceste valori compenstoare sunt cunoscute sub numele de "ajustari" ("trim"). Asadar, unde se regaseste cuvantul "trim", aceasta inseamna "compensare".

"Add" inseamna ajustare aditionala, se refera la un dezechilibru al motorului aflat la ralanti. Atunci cand ECU foloseste o ajustare aditionala, el comanda injectoarelor sa stea deschise o anumita perioada de timp mai lunga sau mai scurta. Defectul (e.g. pierderi de vacuum – vacuum leaks) devine din ce in ce mai insesizabil pe masura ce turatia motorului creste. Pentru valori de adaptare aditionale, reglajul aprinderii (injection timing) este schimbat cu o anumita valoare fixa (un anumit increment). Aceasta valoare nu depinde de reglajul de baza al aprinderii.

"Mult" inseamna ajustare multiplicativa, se refera la un dezechilibru al motorului pe toata plaja de turatii a acestuia. Defectul (e.g. injector blocat / infundat) devine din ce in ce mai pregnant la regimuri de turatie mai ridicate. Pentru valori de adaptare multiplicative, exista o schimbare procentuala in reglajul aprinderii. Aceasta schimbare depinde strict de reglajul de baza al aprinderii.

Puteti verifica starea actuala de ajustare a motorului prin folosirea VAG-COM, mai exact inspectia Grupului 032 din blocul de masura a motorului. Primele doua campuri vor avea procente. Primul camp se refera la ajustarea la ralanti (Additive). Cel de-al doilea se refera la ajustarea la turatii mai inalte ale motorului (Multiplicative). Valorile negative indica faptul ca motorul functioneaza in regim foarte bogat si senzorul de oxigen il face – din acest motiv – mai sarac prin reducerea timpului in care injectoarele stau deschise.

Valorile pozitive indica faptul ca motorul functioneaza in regim foarte sarac si senzorul de oxigen il face – din acest motiv – mai bogat prin cresterea timpului in care injectoarele stau deschise.

Este perfect normal ca oricare dintre cele doua campuri sa fie diferite de zero. De fapt, valoarea zero in ambele campuri indica fie faptul ca au fost recent resetate codurile (resetarea va anula si valorile de ajustare) sau faptul ca ceva nu functioneaza corespunzator. Daca valorile se indeparteaza prea tare de valoarea zero, aceasta va genera un cod de diagnostic al unei probleme (cod de avarie) si pot aprinde indicatorul MIL (denumit in mod current Check Engine Light, sau CEL). Specificatiile pentru operare normala sunt in spectrul a +/- 10%.

In general, o valoare iesita din comun regasita in primul camp (Additive) indica o pierdere de vacuum deoarece este prezenta in principal la ralanti, cand valorile de vacuum sunt maxime. O valoare iesita din comun pentru cel de-al doilea camp (Multiplicative) indica un defect la regim de turatii mai mari, si poate insemna si un senzor MAF cu probleme.

Aceasta este o verificare simpla a functionarii senzorului MAF. Realizati o acceleratie completa pana la linia rosie a turometrului (de preferat cu treapta a II-a, a II-a sau a IV-a de viteza). Grupul 002 arata in mod normal masa de aer in g/s. Valoarea maxima a masei de aer trebuie sa fie mai mult sau mai putin egala cu 80% din puterea masinii.

Asadar, daca aveti o masina stock de 150 CP, motor 1.8T, asteptati-va sa aveti in jur de 120 g/s. Daca valoarea inregistrata este mult mai mica decat cea calculata, senzorul MAF nu functioneaza corect. Acest calcul este valabil si in cazul masinilor chip-uite (remapped), dar programele "race" pot produce mai multi cai putere cu precadere prin intermediul reglajului aprinderii, decat printr-o mai mare masa de aer. Tocmai de aceea, citirile trebuie interpretate cu indulgenta.



Sursa: http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/fuel-trim.html
© Nicky Dobreanu, May 2010

PS Pentru cei nefamiliarizati cu Sonda Lambda, un articol mai mult decat interesant puteti gasi pe http://www.pilotauto.ro/magazin/home-mainm...77-sonda-lambda

[Dr.Silviu]

Are cineva codul pentru ultima revizie de la "cam follower"? Mie ETKA imi arata 06D109309 C. Exista alta varianta mai buna? (am auzit de cel de la KMD, dar nu stiu multe detalii)
Vreau sa-l verific/schimb pentru ca am deja 65000km si am inteles ca e o piesa slaba la pompa de benzina...
Stiu ca la cei cu stage 2+ trebuie sa-l verifice la 10k...

[Bebe]

Codul 06D 109 309 C e ok.
Legat de cel de la KMD, fiind mai dur, am auzit ca uzeaza prea tare lobul de pe ax. Eu zic sa iti pui tot OEM si sa-l schimbi si tu daca are urme de uzura (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Dr.Silviu]

Un articol interesant despre catch-cans:



Why Use a Catch Can?
An excellent article on the benefits of running a catch canfrom redline-motorworks.

How does an oil catch can work and why is it beneficial?
Last Updated: 7/28/2010
There is a large debate as to whether or not oil catch cans are worth the money or not. This article is dedicated to providing a very detailed explanation showing why a catch can is highly recommended in direct injection engine applications.

First, let's go over what is currently happening in your engine without a catch can installed. All internal combustion engines that run off gasoline are 4 stroke engines. This means that the piston has to go up and down a total of 4 times to complete a cycle. The piston first goes down with the intake valves open creating a vacuum. This draws in the cool dense air for combustion. At the same time, fuel is injected into the cylinder. The intake valves close and then the piston rises up towards the top of the cylinder. This compression creates an immense build-up of pressure in the cylinder. The only things containing this high pressure are the cylinder itself, the piston and the piston rings that seat against the walls of the cylinder. The intake and exhaust valves are obviously closed as well. The pressure is so high that a very small amount of the air escapes around the piston and piston rings into the crankcase. This is called blow-by. The amount of blow-by increases as the engine RPMs rise. Also, an engine with more cylinders will have more blow-by. Obviously not all of the air escapes or else combustion wouldn't take place. A diagram of the 4-stroke cycle can be seen below. Only the first 2 steps are relevant in regards to the catch can.

(IMG:https://www.redline-motorworks.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/4-stroke-process.jpg)

Inside the crankcase, you have the crank which is turning in the oil pan which is full of oil. This keeps it properly lubricated. PCV or positive crankcase ventilation is necessary to ensure there isn't a build up of pressure in the crankcase. This would cause the crankcase to possibly crack under the pressure and create a huge mess of oil on the street. So the PCV system removes the pressure from the crankcase and reverts it back through the intake tract via crank case vents. This pressure isn't made up of 100% air. It will also contain a very small amount of oil as well since there is so much in the oil pan at a high temperature. This air and oil mixture is then entered somewhere after the intake system, passes through the intercooler (if you car is turbo or supercharged) and then re-enters the combustion chamber (cylinder) through your intake valves to be re-burned. The oil will actually coat everything on its way back to the combustion chamber. It will develop in the intercooler, boost hoses, intake manifold and intake valves. Just on the other side of these valves is where the combustion is taking place where the temperatures are extremely high. This is what actually causes the oil to solidify on the valves. With the oil passing through the intercooler, it can actually coat the cooling fins which will hinder the intercooler's ability to cool the air therefore lowering the efficiency.

The caking on intake valves is only a problem with direct injection engines. For all other engines that use port injection, the gas is introduced before the combustion chamber which means it flows over the intake valves and enter the combustion chamber premixed with the air. This action of the fuel flowing over the intake valves actually cleans the valves from any oil that make already be on there. The oil never has the chance to cake on the valves in port injection engines.

Having oil caked onto your intake valves can cause the following symptoms:
Knocking
Pre-detonation
Loss in power
Loss in fuel economy
Here is an image of carbon build-up on valves. Yes, it's nasty.

(IMG:https://www.redline-motorworks.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/caked-intake-valves.jpg)

This is mainly due to the fact that the air that comes through your intake system and goes into the combustion chamber won't just be air. It will contain some oil particles which cause the combustion process to be slightly less efficient.

You might ask why do car manufacturers revert this crankcase pressure back into the intake tract? Well, for starters there isn't anywhere safe to revert it to and you can't expel it into the atmosphere because it's not environmentally friendly and is considered to not be street legal.

Another question that arises is why isn't a catch can included from the factory? Well it's pretty simple actually. Most people don't even change their oil (scary but true) so will they think to empty the catch can regularly? The answer is obviously and unfortunately, no.

An oil catch can does just that. It catches or prevents the oil from re-entering the intake tract. A catch can is placed right after the PCV and before the intercooler. This means that a more pure (sometimes 100% pure) air mixture will go through the intercooler and intake valves. A more pure air mixture entering the intake valves means no caking and none of the symptoms listed above.

An oil catch can typically uses steel wool or a baffle system that removes the oil from the air-oil mixture. Higher quality cans use the baffle systems since it is less messy and better at separating the mixture. The oil falls to the bottom of the can where it is stored until the can is emptied.

An oil catch can doesn't add any power or make any cool noises so it is often overlooked when modifying vehicles. However, a catch can will ensure you are always running the most power possible by having a cleaner intake tract free of oil.

[adyp2003]

Din cate am citit, nu s-a postat pana acum...
--> Ultima revizie de Diverter Valve OEM este 06H 145 710 D, in care diafragma a fost "inlocuita" cu un piston.

Cea veche (stanga) versus cea noua (dreapta):
(IMG:http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/1971/06f145710g06h145710d.jpg)

[grecutzu2005]

si cam care ar fi diferenta intre una si alta? inafara de diafragma aia?
tot acelasi lucru il face nu?

[adyp2003]

Se zvoneste ca noul model e mai durabil si nu pica precum puiul de gaina.
De confirmat nu as putea sa fac acest lucru, intrucat nu am testat pe pielea mea.

[adyp2003]

Mi-am schimbat si eu cam follower-ul astazi, la 29.000 km.
La cum arata pentru o masina stock, va deveni consumabil pe lista mea, la fiecare 30.000 km sa il innnoiesc.

Cel nou, impachetat frumos, cu tot cu data de expirare pe eticheta: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
(IMG:http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/1328/img4574.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img2.imageshack.us/img2/6509/img4575a.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6237/img4579f.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/4496/img4580p.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/6622/img4581s.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img696.imageshack.us/img696/3713/img4594e.th.jpg)

[adyp2003]

Si cel vechi, cu ochii vineti, desi nu sunt un sofer repezit:
(IMG:http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/224/img4595u.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/7739/img4605a.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5530/img4610z.th.jpg)
(IMG:http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3228/img4621c.th.jpg) (IMG:http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/4126/img4624.th.jpg)

[adyp2003]

Povestea Silviu mai sus de catch cans si modul in care putem preveni depunerea carbonului pe supapele de admisie.

Totusi, daca am comis-o deja si nu am instalalat la timp un catch can/tank, aveti idee cum putem curata mizeria asta?
Am inteles ca o modalitate ar fi sa desfaci motorul si sa il cureti, dar am vazut pe net niste baieti care spray-aza un produs numit Seafoam in galeria de admisie si apoi iese un fum alb (pe evacuare) care ar fi dovada ca aveai carbon acumulat pe acolo.



M-am uitat la cateva filmulete si recenzii si am aflat ca dupa ce folosesti Seafoam trebuie sa faci schimbul de ulei in foarte scump timp (vreo 250 de mile ziceau unii, daca nu imediat), si mai rau, altii spuneau ca ar trebui sa schimbi si bujiile, ca s-ar putea sa se acumuleze si pe ele mizeria desprinsa de catre Seafoam, bla, bla...

Ati folosit vreun produs similar? Il recomandati?
Sau mai bine sa ramanem la metoda clasicasi sigura: facut zdrente motorul, curatat si apoi instalat catch can?

[Dr.Silviu]

Nici o substanta din lume nu va curata ce s-a depus pe valve... Mai ales fara sa desfaci motorul...
Cea mai buna metoda, este cea mecanica (desfacut motor si razuit de pe valve)